Chapter 47 – Samoa – The Blessed Island

We kept hearing the word, small island, when referencing Samoa and once we got here we realized why? Samoa happens to be pretty small, 2,831 km² compared to Fiji which is 18,274 km²and Vanuatu that is 12,189 km²

National Baha’i Center:

As soon as the rain stopped, one of our first activities was to walk to the Baha’i Center where we met some very dear friends, a member of the NSA, an ABm, Institute process coordinators and the office staff. Their kind and loving embrace right in the middle of the day was heart warming. They all were concerned about our one and half kilometer walk to the National center so two sweet ladies offered us a right back to the hotel.

Sign at entrance of the Baha’i center
Baha’i center in Apia. The structure with the red roof is called a Fale – an open air gathering place.

Grave of is Highness, Malietoa yTanumafili II

The two links below provides you with a lot of information and understanding as to why visiting this particular grave, just a little short of a mile from the center of town on a busy road, was very important for us.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Malietoa_Tanumafili_II

photos.app.goo.gl/BMRSKhK8bzZBK99F6

Malietoa, the only reigning Bahá’í monarch to live in modern times and Samoan head of state led his nation from colonialism to freedom and independence.

Known as His Highness Malietoa Tanumafili II, and also called Susuga, he held the title of one of Samoa’s four paramount chiefs and the head of state, or O le Ao o le Malo (the first warrior). Often referred to as the King of Samoa, he always preferred the traditional tribal title of Malietoa.

The grave is unmarked and we wondered why. As usual the person with the answer, just happened to visit the grave. His name is Suhayl and he is the great grand nephew of Malietoa. He, also, served at the Baha’i World center.

He said that Malietoa did not want his name or titles on the grave. His only wish was to be buried next to his father (the raised square plot, lined with stones, next to Malietoa’s grave.

Tiapapata Art Centre

Our dear Samoan Baha’i contact, Ruth, suggested that we visit and have lunch at this wonderful, multi-functional space.

Our first visit was right after the devotional program on Sunday and the place was packed. Lunch and drinks were delicious so we decided to go back again, for a longer visit, after our third visit to the HOW.

Art gallery

Today, the place was quiet and Steven, the co- owner, graciously took us on a personal tour of the Art center and introduced us to some of their project. The tour included the paper making – see video below- the drum making, the art studio, the art gallery and the cafe. The facility has three unique bed&breakfast units. Creative Samoa has many other projects. Their beautiful website include all of the information.

https://www.creativesamoa.com/

Green Paper project in Samoa:

https://youtu.be/6xMizZZlkjQ?feature=shared

Tour of the island:

Besides the above, we did an eight hour drive around the island and stoped at some of most talked about sites.

The first stop was at the Giant Clam sanctuary.

Again, lucky for those that swim, Richard was able to snorkel at this much talked about spot on a beautiful clear day and observe what you see in the below video. He said the smaller clams with translucent green colors would close as he approached them but the larger clams stayed open. He also saw a small coral restoration project where young coral was attached to a wire cage.

The flag marks the spot for the giant clams. Richard is the only on in the photo, collecting sand for our friend, Chris.

Ocean Trench

Our next stop was the Ocean Trench, were a straight ladder takes you down to a swimming hole. We passed on that and instead enjoyed the view of the beautiful ocean and majestic waves, and YAY! I saw a sea turtle.

A kind tourist took a nice photo of us.

Our driver, Alemah , spoke good English, knew everybody and was very informative. He told us that the many large open structures are called Fale. They are used as gathering places for villagers or families.

We saw many single, double or triple graves in the front yard of homes. He explained that in Samoa the dead can be buried in your yard if you are free & clear owner of the land. No permission is needed.

Our wonderful trip around this lush and beautiful island took about 8 hours, including a great Fish and Chips lunch at a very quaint resort. The end of the land for the bus from the airport:

Cultural Village

Another must see event was a 3 hour presentation at the cultural village created and run by Samoan Tourist Board.

The event starts with beautiful live music, making of our own plate using coconut leaves, cooking, wood carving, cloth stenciling, the “pain room” (where the traditional whole body tattoo is done), eating the lunch which we had observed being cooked on our handmade coconut leaf plates, closing with more music and dance. We also learned that though normally in the South Pacific you do not tip for service the one exception is the dancers. We saw that the Samoans in our tour group placed money on the stage so happily we did too. Though it’s odd to not tip for service it’s liberating as well.

We also visited the magnificent Catholic Church in Apia, the market where 100s of venders display their material and where most tourists buy their gifts.

Robert Louis Stevenson

Samoa was home to this renowned writer from 1889 until his passing. His home “ the Vailima house” is today the Robert Louis Stevenson Museum.

The tapa room- walls are covered by beautiful tapa cloth.

Samoan’s love and revere RLS for many reason. They believe that it was he who put Samoa on the map, had a key role in islands independice from Germany and lastly his great love and respect for the people who took him – and his family- knowing of his serious health issue (tuberculosis.)

Originals of three of his well known book!
The kitchen – separate space from the house.

Our sweet guide, Saba, sang for us, RLS’s poem, which he had wanted read/sang at his burial site up on the mountains in Vailimia – the 5 rivers.

The poem is titled Requiem is written on his grave:

Under the wide and starry sky
Dig the grave and let me lie:
Glad did I live and gladly die,
And I laid me down with a will.

This be the verse you ‘grave for me:
Here he lies where he long’d to be;
Home is the sailor, home from the sea,
And the hunter home from the hill.

Portrait shows RLS’s good and bad side!

Catholic Church

This beautiful church is sure worth visiting. We had the whole place to ourselves. We offered prayers for unity of all mankind.

We were told that Christianity is the main religion in Samoa. Most of the people are of Catholic, Mormon, Methodist or the Assembly of God denomination.

Cruise-ship

On our Sunday visit to the House of Worship we met a couple, from NC at the gate. As we talked we learned that they too were Baha’is and they had come to Samoa on a 52 days cruise, from San Diego, CA. Later that day we saw their enormous cru take off from the Samoan Bay for Fiji.

Children and youngsters:

I could not help take photos of the beautiful Samoan kids:

This is our last night in the South Pacific. We will be heading home, by way of Honolulu, Hawaii and San Francisco , tomorrow afternoon.

This 6 plus week has been filled with SO MANY powerful memories of sites, sounds but especially of the many angels we have met along the way. THANK YOU, Fiji, Vanuatu and Samoa islands for your hospitality. We sure hope to make it back and encourage others to visit your beautiful nations.

This is a link to loads of photos:

photos.app.goo.gl/tPM8Ya37fGsDKia89

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