The next island on our list was Java, a vast and varied island with so much to experience and appreciate.  Java is divided in to three areas, west, central and east.  We decided to skip the capital, Jakarta, and head to Yogykarta (Jogja as the local call it.)  

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Our accommodation, a refurbished and well maintained older home which was converted to a homestay (bed&breakfast) with 5 rooms, was very unique and wonderful.  As we checked in we learned that we were the only people staying there so we ended up living high on the hog, being fussed over and cared for by the wonderful women, we referred to as Ibu, who was our cook/house keeper/adviser/tour guide and everything else.  Every morning we woke up to a great pot of coffee on the veranda, followed by a different and always delicious breakfast  of Indonesian cuisine or omelet and toast served with fresh fruit and freshly squeezed juice.  

The main attractions in Yogykarta is the tour of the Prambanan temple but there is a lot more to experience.  We visited the Sultan Castle and the Water Castle in a section of town called Kraton, went to a shadow play puppet show, walked the Malioboro Street which was lively and filled with locals and tourists all hours of the day and nigh, shopped for Batik clothing and sampled the street food.

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We had never seen so many different modes of transportation in any of the cities that we have visited.  There are cars (Grab and Blue Bird – Uber and Lyft like), motor bikes but the more common forms were the buggies on bicycle, motorbike and horses, all beautifully decorated and in abundance everywhere we went.  We tried everything but the bicycle buggies.  

I loved to see the murals on walls along the streets.  The one that really caught our attention was this one with one of major tenants of the Baha’i  Faith.

Prambanan is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is a 9th century Hindu temple  dedicated to Hindu Deities, Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva.  It is the largest  Hindu temple site in Indonesia.  The best time for the tour is at sunset.  It is truly awe inspiring to stand next to the Majestic, towering structures which resemble mini pagodas.  Highlight of the experience was meeting and being guided by two young high-school students who are studying to be tour guides and were in that area for 3 months doing their internship.  The temple is grand and is a must see for anyone visiting the area.

We were glad to had signed up to see the Ramayana Ballet  performance at the theater at the temple and be  able to take a peak of the night view of the temple.

It was hard leaving yogykarta (our home away from home) and saying goodbye to our dear unforgettable caretaker Ibu. 

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Our next stop was the village of Borobudur that is home to the stunning  Borobudur temple.   This 9th century Mahaynana Buddhist temple is the largest Buddhist temple  in the world and is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Best time to visit the temple is at sunrise.  We were SO GLAD to find out that our homestay, a humble but totally adequate place with awesome staff, was a 10 minute walk from the entrance of the temple.  Up we are at 4am with flashlights going up 250 uneven steps not quite knowing what we were to see  but slowly the day break reveals the stacked  platforms, topped by a central dome and decorated with over 2,500 panels and 504 Buddha statues, 72 of which are used to encircle the central dome.  The blend of Javanese Buddhist architecture and Gupta art influence from India is awe inspiring.  After 100s of photos and walking around every level we decent the  steps and as always, are greeted by youth wanting to take photos with Richard.

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While in Bordobur we visited the  Mendut temple, also built in 9th century with one main room with three large and beautifully carved statutes.  

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We were intrigued by the name “chicken church” and decided to see what it was.  We had a great visit and met some wonderful people and took in some awesome views from the birds head and tail and learned that the structure was built to resemble a dove but since it looks like a chicken the locals began call it the chicken church.   Also, it is not a church but a house for prayers for all people. 

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Java is also home to many volcanos, including the active and quite well known, Mount Bromo.  Because of the heat and as we discovered the most beautiful views at sunrise, the tour begins at 2:30am.  We had arranged our tour through the homestay in Probolinggo.  This homestay was larger, with about 20 rooms, but as most of the others very comfortable with friendly and VERY helpful staff. 

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We, along with 5 other guests (from Holland, China, Latvia and  Germany) – total of 8 people with the driver – pile in to a car built for 5 at 2:30am and arrive at the drop off point at 4:00am,  still pitch dark outside.  All we see and hear are flashlights pointing to the ground, locals men approaching us offering to take us up the mountain with a horse and the sound of 100s of visitors especially the cheerful youth.

We walk the 1Kilometer very steep  path and then climb the 250 step to the top.  It is still pitch dark.  To our surprise a couple of locals had set up a table, selling hot coffee, Cocoa and tea.  Slowly we have the dawn break, prelude to a beautiful sunrise revealing breathtaking views and as the sun rises we could see the magnificent crater and the volcano. Our phots, taken with my iPhone 8 and our water proof Fuji camera do not do the majesty of want we observed justice. 

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The owner of our homestay in Probolinggo suggested that we take the express bus to Surabaya, a major city with the airport.  He gave us detailed instructions as to what bus  to take and what to avoid to not get cheated but  for the first time  in our entire time in Indonesia we were cheated.  These two guys walked us in to the bus, put our luggages where they were to go, under the bus, told us that they were the driver and the ticket agent, pulled out a ticket book  and asked for 100 R.  We said we think it should be 30 and they insisted that was not correct so we reluctantly paid the guys and did not see them again.  Once the bus was on its way the REAL conductor came around issuing ticket for 50K and he accepted ours.  Well, at least we had not been cheated for more than a 100R ($7.50)

Surabaya (shark and Alligator) is a large and nicely laid out city.  We were in need of some western type food and was happy to learn that there was a 99 store (Ranch market) not too far and where we found all that we needed.  Our dinner – traditional food – especially my soup with bean sprouts and lentil balls, made by a sweet woman, was wholesome and delicious.

We had an early flight to Pangkalan Buun in Kalimantan and was happy to have take away breakfast, mainly croissants, packed for us by the hotel.

As you can tell this chapter proceeds the one about the orangutans in Kalimantan, the island that we visited after Java.